Entre el Cielo y el Suelo

Celebración tardía del día de los muertos:

Angeles para un final. Mausoleos de La Recoleta. 22 de junio del 2005.

Al caminar por las calles y avenidas de La Recolta me recuerdo las palabras de una plena popular:

Tanta vanidad,

Tanta hipocresía,

Si tu cuerpo despues de muerto pertenece a la tumba fría.

Los únicos ciudadanos que hoy plagan las mansiones, palacios y fortalezas de este cementerio son los gatos que de esquina en esquina nos maullaban como para reclamarnos lo que hacíamos invadiendo su espacio.


La Plaga.
Gatos en La Recoleta. 22 de junio del 2005.

Despues de pasear por el cementerio Mark y yo fuimos al centro cultural de la Recoleta, compramos boletos para De La Guarda, y (sorpresa de sorpresas) nos tomamos un cafe con medialunas desde la terraza del Buenos Aires Design Center. Desde ahí vimos el atardecer sobre la Plaza de Francia. Si hubiera tenido mas energías (y menos dolor en los pies) hubiera aprovechado para ver bien la bienal nacional de arte en El Centro Cultural. A fin de cuentas solo le pude dar una vistada de prisa el ultimo día en Argentina en los cinco minutos antes de que se supone que empezara De La Guarda. Para la próxima como siempre.

Mariposas Multicolor

Street art in Buenos Aires. Junio 20, 2005

Y tu que dices?

Paloma y Corniza. Avenida de 25 de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina. Junio 20, 2005.

Lautaro te amo

Esquina de la Boca. Buenos Aires. 21 de junio de 2005.

Que triste cuando se acaba

We said goodbye to my family last Monday and headed for Buenos Aires, the capital, for our last five days in Argentina. It was a sad goodbye. We had so much fun and Mark was made to feel like one of the family.

Now we’re in Buenos Aires one of the biggest cities in the world. Similar to New York in its bustling and hurried lifestyle, and to Paris in its greatness and splendor it’s also a city of contrasts, where the excesses of the monuments and of the rich clash with the poverty left by a horrid recession. We’ve already walked through most of the city. My favorite part is San Telmo, the old neighborhood of the newly emigrated from Italy or Spain. Today it’s full of anticuarians and bohemians. Every store is like a museum and we found the best restaurant there, more like a local cafeteria. We’ve been to touristy and colorful Boca, visited Plaza de Mayo (where we’ll be returning today to watch the mothers of the Plaza de Mayo mourn for the disappeared), gotten tickets for the opera tonight at Teatro Colon, and visited the apartment complexes of the dead and rich at the Recoleta cemetery (where Evita is buried). But my favorite so far has been the Museum of Immigration, housed in the old Immigrant Hotel, a huge building complex where people from all over Europe where given housing, food, language courses, and helped to find jobs when they first arrived to Buenos Aires. They have a database where you can search for relatives for a fee. I tried it out hoping to find the dates when my great grandparents (my grandma Chola’s parents) came from Italy. I couldn’t find them but it seems someone with my greatgrandmothers last name and place of birth came to Argentina in the 1920s. I’ll have to ask my aunt to see if they might be a relative or not. Anyways, that’s it for now. We’ll be back on Sunday so see you (or talk to you) soon,

Giovi