Los Origenes de Sefiní

Sefiní

basta por esta noche cierro

la puerta me pongo

el saco guardo

los papelitos donde

no hago sino hablar de ti

mentir sobre tu paradero

cuerpo que me has de temblar

-Juan Gelman-

Si mis emociones y pensamientos mas profundos pudiesen habitar un rincón de esta tierra, ¿quién diría que no sería un mugroso y olvidado bar en Montevideo donde poetas, marineros, y prostitutas se reúnen a bailar tango?

Ya van 15 años que esta película y los poetas que le dan el pulso son mis favoritos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gL5xSqolcqc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzrBbWyVqlY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRMcM--p7wk
http://abretucielo.blogspot.com/2007/05/fragmentos-poticos-de-el-lado-oscuro.html

Entre el Cielo y el Suelo

Celebración tardía del día de los muertos:

Angeles para un final. Mausoleos de La Recoleta. 22 de junio del 2005.

Al caminar por las calles y avenidas de La Recolta me recuerdo las palabras de una plena popular:

Tanta vanidad,

Tanta hipocresía,

Si tu cuerpo despues de muerto pertenece a la tumba fría.

Los únicos ciudadanos que hoy plagan las mansiones, palacios y fortalezas de este cementerio son los gatos que de esquina en esquina nos maullaban como para reclamarnos lo que hacíamos invadiendo su espacio.


La Plaga.
Gatos en La Recoleta. 22 de junio del 2005.

Despues de pasear por el cementerio Mark y yo fuimos al centro cultural de la Recoleta, compramos boletos para De La Guarda, y (sorpresa de sorpresas) nos tomamos un cafe con medialunas desde la terraza del Buenos Aires Design Center. Desde ahí vimos el atardecer sobre la Plaza de Francia. Si hubiera tenido mas energías (y menos dolor en los pies) hubiera aprovechado para ver bien la bienal nacional de arte en El Centro Cultural. A fin de cuentas solo le pude dar una vistada de prisa el ultimo día en Argentina en los cinco minutos antes de que se supone que empezara De La Guarda. Para la próxima como siempre.

Bienvenidos, Welcome

"Bienvenidos" Rosario, Argentina Junio 11, 2005. Fotografo: Mark Neff

Hace tiempo que no pongo nada por aca pero ahora que me han descubierto no puedo decepcionar. Creo que de ahora en adelante mezaclare las fotos de Argentina "2005" con fotos de otros viajes que hemos tomado desde que me regalaron la camarita. Tal vez de vez en cuando tambien pondre otras fotos de la vida cotidiana y antes de que se note puede que esto sea un blog de verdad. (Dios mio, la responsabilidad!)

El dia de la foto estabamos toda la familia Medina/Gimenez y Armoa en el Club Nautico celebrando el dia del padre (*Me han corregido que aparentemente no era el dia del padre--la verdad que soy una gallina turuleca!) con un asado espectacular (para ver que quiere decir "espectacular" favor ver las entradas anteriores). La sala de merienda la compartiamos con otros grupos que tambien celebraban a sus respectivos padres. De repente entra esta pareja, que habian sido contratados por uno de los otros grupos y ahi mismo dan un show de tango bellisimo. Fue un momento muy especial. Nos gusto tanto el show que Mari decidio contratar a la pareja para la fiesta de cumple de la Chola unas semanas despues.

Nada dice "Bienvenidos" a la Argentina tan bien como un suculento asado con familares y amigos y un show impromptu de tango de salon.

Mariposas Multicolor

Street art in Buenos Aires. Junio 20, 2005

LOTERiA

Local abandonado (?) en la Avenida 9 de Julio (?) cerca de la feria de antiguedades. Rosario, Argentina. Junio 11, 2005.

Mari y Mark en el Retro

Mercado de Antiguedades de Rosario, 11 de Junio del 2005.
Este mercado ocurre cerca de la estacion de trenes, al lado de las vias, cada domingo del mes. Entre vasijas y libros viejos, joyeria, medallas y fotos viejas, mi tia Mari encontro un disco de una cantante Brasilera de los 60. La mujer tenia una voz divina. Mari lo compro y mi primo se lo iba a convertir a CD. El senor que se lo vendio era un personaje. Un viejito amante de la musica con los espejuelos mas gruesos que he visto y un conocimiento enciclopedico.

Me encantan estos mercados de antiguedades. En Buenos Aires hay algunos cuantos y el mas famoso por supuesto es el de San Telmo.

A donde van los desaparecidos

Desaparecido/a numero 650 del area de Rosario. 11 de junio de 2005.

Un artista local los decidió plasmar en la memoria colectiva pintando bicicletas fantasmas--de pie a pesar de no tener dueños--en lugares através de toda la ciudad.

Los años del 1976-83 marcan una mancha en la historia Argentina. Utilizando tácticas de mentiras que creaban miedo e inseguridad, un grupo de genocidas que creían y decían trabajar por el bienestar de la nación, lograron aterrorizar al pueblo argentino y desparecer a 30,000 seres humanos. ¿Como es posible que esto pueda haber sucedido en un país que nos dio Borges, Cortazar, y Piazzolla? Tal vez no sea tan difícil de imaginar en medio del clima de represión, de "moralidad" y de "todo para derrotar al terrorismo" en el que vivimos hoy día...

Una verdadera Chola

Chola tomando mate el dia de la jineteada tipica. Rosario, Argentina. Junio 18, 2005

Y tu que dices?

Paloma y Corniza. Avenida de 25 de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina. Junio 20, 2005.

Lautaro te amo

Esquina de la Boca. Buenos Aires. 21 de junio de 2005.

Que triste cuando se acaba

We said goodbye to my family last Monday and headed for Buenos Aires, the capital, for our last five days in Argentina. It was a sad goodbye. We had so much fun and Mark was made to feel like one of the family.

Now we’re in Buenos Aires one of the biggest cities in the world. Similar to New York in its bustling and hurried lifestyle, and to Paris in its greatness and splendor it’s also a city of contrasts, where the excesses of the monuments and of the rich clash with the poverty left by a horrid recession. We’ve already walked through most of the city. My favorite part is San Telmo, the old neighborhood of the newly emigrated from Italy or Spain. Today it’s full of anticuarians and bohemians. Every store is like a museum and we found the best restaurant there, more like a local cafeteria. We’ve been to touristy and colorful Boca, visited Plaza de Mayo (where we’ll be returning today to watch the mothers of the Plaza de Mayo mourn for the disappeared), gotten tickets for the opera tonight at Teatro Colon, and visited the apartment complexes of the dead and rich at the Recoleta cemetery (where Evita is buried). But my favorite so far has been the Museum of Immigration, housed in the old Immigrant Hotel, a huge building complex where people from all over Europe where given housing, food, language courses, and helped to find jobs when they first arrived to Buenos Aires. They have a database where you can search for relatives for a fee. I tried it out hoping to find the dates when my great grandparents (my grandma Chola’s parents) came from Italy. I couldn’t find them but it seems someone with my greatgrandmothers last name and place of birth came to Argentina in the 1920s. I’ll have to ask my aunt to see if they might be a relative or not. Anyways, that’s it for now. We’ll be back on Sunday so see you (or talk to you) soon,

Giovi

Cousin Virginia and my grandma drinking mate

IMG_1332
Originally uploaded by La gio.

Mark is a Newel's Old Boys fan

IMG_1319
Originally uploaded by La gio.

My uncle Tola making asado

IMG_1227
Originally uploaded by La gio.

Asado

IMG_1263
Originally uploaded by La gio.

Juan and Laura, the happy couple

1
Originally uploaded by La gio.

of Weddings and Meat

Well, as you can see I haven´t been updating very frequently. The last time I managed to drag myself across the street of my grandma´s apartment to check my spam I convinced Mark to post for us. I am in complete vacation mode. I know at some point I´ll have to return to my previous life with the keeping in touch with world events, and the being responsible and laborious, but for now that moment does not exist. Mark and I have created a very nice routine for ourselves. We get up around 11am, if we are feeling restless sometimes we forgo my grandmas coffee and medíalunas for coffee and medialunas outside of the apartment at a cafe, then we walk around the city center, then we have lunch, then we do touristy stuff, then we chill drinking mate and having tea, then we walk around some more, then we have dinner around 10, then we might go out with my cousins to a bar to catch some live music. Not bad, eh?
Well in bigger news,
Se caso el Juani!
My cousin Juan Pablo got married last Friday to Laura, his girlfriend of 8 years and the mother of the new addition to the family, the future Julieta or Santiago who is currently six months prepartum.
So you know how argentines like to party hard and late, right? Well the reception started at 9 and ended at 4:30 am, just after my grandma danced a tango with my uncle Tola. There was tons of food and drinks and tossing of my cousin up in the air, it was excellent. I danced liked I haven´t danced in my life.
And today we had the world-famous ASADO!! Vegetarians should stop reading at this point because their sensibilities WILL be offended. My family got together with the family of Laura to share in a small cow. Basically you eat everything, steaks of course but also, chorizo, sausage, tripe (small and large intestines), kidneys, mollejas (salivary glands), morcilla (blood sausage). All of course seasoned with chimichurri. Delish! Don´t knock it til you try it because down here they really know how to cook meat. And that´s coming from me, who is at best an occasional steak burrito, tri-tip eater at home. Generally not very enthusiastic but here I can´t help but have more beef than I would normally eat in a year.

I´ll really try to post pictures soon,
un abrazo

Esta Mark Aqui

After just three days, I can tell you the fundamentals of Argentina (y Argentinos). Here, futbol and meat reign supreme, usually accompanied by Quilmes cerveza. Also, the primary cultural undercurrent is familia and friends. There's a closeness here not found in the U.S. There seems to be two reasons for this. First, it's a carry-over from the Spanish and Italian influence of the Old World. Argentina is a confluence of these two cultures. Second, there is far less 'dispersal' here than in the U.S., which affords an opportunity to keep family and friends close (both literally and figuratively). Giovi's grandmother, for intance, has probably spent 90% of her life within 2 blocks of her present residence (she will be 86 years old in one week). This is of course not to say that Chola isn't worldly. Anyway, enough blogging para mi. Argentina y Argentinos es muy comodo, relajante, y placentero.

Ciao

Culture Shock

Men kiss on the cheeks.
Old fashioned elevators with wire doors.
Tons of internet cafes.
Mate (I´ll post a picture of it soon)
Dinner at ten, going for drinks at midnight... out with the boys until 6am.
Also, sadly, there´s still lots of poverty.
I´ll write more soon,

un abrazo,

Giovi

First Post Travelogue

I'm writing from an exotic land, where curious looking people roam the streets talking to themselves, doing weird hand claps while humming the tune of Star Wars. Where are we? That's right we haven't left Berkeley yet. This actually just a test to see if this thing works.